Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Back at the beach

OK, it only took a few good roads and getting back in the ocean to get my mind off the mindf**k of Barcelona. Being the victim of a crime is not healthy for the mind or soul, but I'm enjoying life again. Andalucia really does have some beautiful country. The beaches don't impress me much, mainly because they are all covered with tourists from Europe, the States, and everywhere else, but the inland & mountains are cool. And now that I'm in Sagres, Portugal, it's back to surfing safari time. Sagres is like so many other surf destinations around the world. One, the second language in Portugal is English, not Spanish as I expected. And if you've been to any surf destination, you know what this place is like - surf shops, cheap hotels, and lots of cool dudes who know what the stoke is all about. I imagine this place has been surfed since the mid-sixties, maybe earlier.
I've found a half dozen breaks, all beach breaks at the bottom of 100' cliffs. The problem is wind. It howls here. I mean, REALLY howls. It's bad news when you see wind energy machines all around you. But there are some breaks in the lee, and a couple where the wind is offshore most of the time. The other problem? Well, if you've seen Endless Summer, you know what people said when I showed up last night before sunset. I saw some waist high waves and asked some locals about the surf. Yeah, right: "Ya shoulda been here yesterday." So, this morning, I ot up for an early surf check, and sure enough, it was flat. Oh well, I got in the water anyway and caught a tiny mushburger of blown-out beach break, but what the heck, it's one more country I can say I've surfed in.
And there's no such thing as a bad day of surfing, right? And yes, there are naked boobs on the beach.
So, life is good again.


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