The Route so far (since MapMyRoute)-

I don't expect anyone else to care about this, except for real map freaks. It's more for my own archival use. The letters and numbers (D198) refer to route numbers on my Michelin maps. (FWIW, Michelin says France is changing the numbers.)

5-23 sun
Bastia - Brando - Macinaggio - Ersa - Barcaggio - Tollare - Macinaggio
5-24 mon
Macinaggio(glove) - Marine de Luri - Macinaggio(gloves) - Marine de Porticciolo - Cagnano - Castiglione - Pino - Marine de Canelle beach - Nonza - Marine de Canelle(lens) - St Florent - L'lle Rousse - Calvi - Pte de la Revellata(swim) - Galeria - Porto
5-25 tue
Porto - les Calanche - Cargese - Sagone - D25 - Ambiegna - Arbori - Vico - Col de Sevi - Col de Vergio - Castirla - Corte - La Restonica - Col de Bellagranajo - Ajaccio - Porticcio - Camping, D255a(Pietrosella)
5-26 wed
Camping D255a - Pnta La Castagna(french family of guys on BMWs) - Serra di Ferro - Taravo River flowers - Propriano - Sartene - Plage de Tonnara - Bonifacio - Plage de Piantarella - D859 Figari - D59 Col de Bacinu - Levie – Zonz
5-27 thu
Zonza - Col de Bavella - Col de Larone +2miles - Zonza - Levie - Ste Lucie D268 - D69 - Aullene - Zicavo (Cascade) - Col de Verde - Ghisoni(cafe, Belgian couple) - col de Sorba - Vivario - N193 - Corte(gas) - Vivario - Col de Morello - Vezzani - D243 - D43 - Rospigliani - D143 - N200 - D314 - Altiani - D14 - Erbajolo - D39 - Feo - D41 - Sermano - D41 - Sta Lucia - Tralonca - N193 - Corte(Hotel du Pais) - N193 - Ponte Leccia
5-28 fri
P.Leccia - D71 - Morosaglia - Piedicroce - Cervione - Corniche de la Castagniccia(cascade) - Sta Lucia di Moriani - D330 - Talasani - Isolaccio - D230 - N198 - D506a - San Pellegrino - N198 - San Pan Crazio - D106 - D6 - D206 - D237 - Silvareccio - D237 - Octiporio - D515 - Barchetta - N193 - Ponte Nuovo - D5 - Lento - Bigorno - Murata - D5 - Col de S.Stefano - Oletta - D38 - Col de Teghime - D81 - D64 - Cardo - D81 - Bastia - Miomo - Erbalunga - Miomo
5-29 sat
Miomo - Marine de Luri - Castiglione - Col de Ste Lucie - Tour de Seneque - Pino - Morsiglia - Pastina - Marine de Meria - Bastia - FERRY - Livorno - S1 to Pisa - N12 around Pisa to Sarzana - S1 to La Spezia
5-30 sun
La Spezia - Riomaggiore(CinqueTerre) - Levanto - Pso d Bracco - SS1 – Genova
5-31 Mon
Genova
6-1 tue
Genova - Pso d Turchino - P del Faiallo - Olba san Pietro - Palo - Sassello - 334 - Col d Giovo - Giusvalla - Dego - Carcare - Bormida - Col di Melogno - Calizzano - Bardineto - Castelvecchio - Col San Bernardo - Garessio - Ormea - ponte di Nava - Col di Nava - Pieve di Teco - Col San Bartolomeo
6-2 wed
Col S.B. - San Bernardo di Conio - Colle d'Oggia(+2.5 miles) - S.B.d.C. - Passo Teglia - Andagna - Molini di Triora - Colle Langan - Castelvittorio - Bajardo - S.Romolo - Borello - (near San Remo, past autostrada) - Perinaldo - Dolceaqua - Roccheta Nervina - Verrandi - Trucco -Airole - Breil sur Roya - Tende - col de Tende - Sospel
6-3 thu
Sospel - D2566 - Menton - Monaco - Grand Corniche - Nice - Bd Maurice Slama - A8 - Nice Nord - Gairaut - A8 - Nice Est- Nice Nord - D14 - Falicon - D19 - Tourette Levins - D815 - contes - D615(Berre les Alpes) - L'Escarene - D2566 - Luceram - D21 - La Cabanette - D21 - Col d'Orme - D54 - D2204 - Col de Braus - Sospel
6-4 fri
Sospel - Col de Turini - La Bollene Vesubie - St Martin Vesubie - St Saveur - D30(2mile past Roure) - St Saveur - D2205 - D6202 - Le Chandan - D901 - Carros - St Jeannett - Vence - St Paul - Maeght Found. - D7 - D6 - D7 - D2085 - Grasse - Le Cannett - La Bocca - Theoule sur Mer - Antheor - Agay - Antheor
6-5 sat
Antheor - St Raphael - D559 - Port Grimaud - D98 - D558 - Cogolin - Grimaud - La Garde Freinet - D48 - Vidauban - N7 - La Muy - D25 - Gorges de Pennafort - Callas - Col du Bel Homme - D25 - D21 - comps - D71 - Grand Canyon du Verdun - Corniche Sublime - Aiguines - D19 - D957 - D952 - Moustiers - Riez - d953 - Mezel - N85 - Chaudon Norante - D20 - Col de Corobin - Eaux Chaudes - Digne les Bains - D12 - Le Chaffaut - D8 - D4 - Le Mees - St Donat - D101 - D951 - St Etienne - D950 - Banon - Sault - Montbrun
6-6 sun
Montbrun - D189 - Ferrassieres - D63 - Col de L'Homme Mort - D542 - Sederon -
D170 - Eygaleyes - Col St Jean - Laborel - D65 - Col de Perty - St Auban - La
Rochette - Buis Les Baronnies - Mollans - Entrechaux - D13 - D938 - Malaucene - D13 - Caromb - D13 - Carpentras - D13 - Caromb _ D13 - D938 - D19 - Beduin - D974 - Le Chalet Reynard - Mont Ventoux - Malaucene - D90 - Suzette - Beaumes - D81 - D8 - Bollene - Pont St Esprit - D6086 - D290 - Gorges De L'Ardeche - Vallon Pont d'Arc
6-7 mon
Vallon - D579 - Vagnes - D255 - Bessas - Berias et Casteljau - Les Borels - D252 - D901 - Les Vans - D901 - D906 - Ales - Cendras - Le Baume - D32 - Col de la Baraque - D54 - Col de Pendedis - D54 - St Andre de Lancize - D984 - St Germain - Masel - Nogaret - D13 - D62 - Masbonnet - Le Pompidou - D9(Corniche des Cevennes) - St Jean du Gard - D153 - LaSalle - Sumene - D20 - St Martial - Col de Triballe - D420 - Peyregrosse - D986 - D999 - Le Vigan

Catching up

It'll take a while to catch up. I can't believe I haven't found Inet access in a week. I'm in southern France right now - some dinky little town in the hills. I went to the top of Mt Vendoux today. Pretty incredible. I should be in Spain in a few days. I've been twisting around the Maritime Alps, in between stints on the Riviera. The Riv is like Laguna Beach, only richer and more crowded. I found a nice stretch, though, with a pretty nice campsite. I also went to the Temple of Money. No, not Wall Street - the Casino at Monte Carlo. It's amazing. Well, I didn't actually go in, but the aura of people with so much money they have fun throwing it away is pretty decadent.

I've finally had a couple of bad days. Why does it always have to come in threes? When I have time and energy I'll tell more of the story. Suffice it to say I now have a certificate that I've contributed 90 Euros to the French government. And more evidence that getting old really sucks. But overall, it's still a great trip. For evey hour of tribulation, there are 20 of joy. There is some danger of me becoming an alcoholic, though. That half carafe of wine with dinner is real enticing.
OK, I gotta go. The barman wants to close up and I'm using his WiFi. some time I'll find a real Inet connection.

 Everywhere seems very clean, with very little litter on the streets. One reason is this guy goes around picking up what he can. Another reason is people burn their trash every morning. I guess you get used to the smell, but there should be a better way.

This is Mont Ventoux. Can you imagine riding a bicycle up that?

 

The view from the top. That's bare rock, not snow.

 

The Riviera from the Grand Corniche. I first read about the GC in an early James Bond book. I always wanted to ride it.

Lifeguard tower at Nice. Yes, there are topless women in the pic. The beach is cobblestone. Not very comfy to walk on, so very few people in the water.

The Casino at Monte Carlo.

I found a little secluded beach here for a swim. Not much of this isoation on the Riviera, but it exists.

Up in the hills:

That's a cherry tree in the foreground, with olives beyond, and a bunch of different crops on the hillside.

Last day in Italy

6-1-10

I am sitting here on the balcony of my hotel room at the Albergo Belvedere on the Col de Bartolomeo. As I type, I am munching on an assortment of delicious cookies I bought at the Agaccio shop in Ponte de Nava (a gourmet specialty shop I chanced into.) There is hardly any breeze and even the birds are quiet at 8:20 in the evening. The sun is still up, but low in the sky. Col means pass, so I am at the top of the mountain and looking down a long valley to the Mediterranean miles below. I can see at least 7 church steeples in little villages dotted across the green landscape, (even one all by itself on the mountain side.)

The cookies are just a greedy  bit of decadence, because I just finished a delicious dinner. The hotel is an old place, run by an elderly couple and their middle-aged daughter. It seems more like a B&B, because the family sat down to eat in the dining room after I was served. The Italian version of “Who Wants to be a Millionaire” was on the tube. I think I’m the only guest, because the daughter told me I had 7 minutes before dinner would be ready. It was spaghetti marinara, about the best ever. Very simple, but perfectly done, accompanied by some steamed green beans, I think from their garden. (The pasta is home-made, I found out.) There was a plate of 3 cheeses on the side. And the red wine? Let me back up.

I left Genova late this morning. I posted some stuff, took a few videos in the hotel and town, then headed up the coast. Traffic wasn’t horrendous, but bad enough to cause stress. I’d looked at the map and there seemed to be a twisty road not too far from town. I jumped at the chance and it was as expected, an adrenalin rush of me vs the road, as opposed to me vs a horde of other people on the road. Much nicer, and much calmer. I navigated my way closer to France, but the heat of the day and the stress of traffic zapped my energy. I had a hard time staying awake, even though the countryside was new and beautiful. I tried a couple of cafes, and finally stopped by a small stream to rest. I decided to find a hotel and call it a day. The decision was made easier thinking that the closer I get to the Med and France, the closer I get to Riviera type prices. I figured if there wasn’t a hotel at the Col, I’d backtrack to the last town. 

Luckily, the Albergo Belvedere is here. As I pulled up, a car pulled up right behind me. The driver got out, and we both entered together.  I asked for a single room, and a woman asked “single?” and pointed to the other man. He explained that he’d been there a while ago and they said he could have a bottle of red wine for 5 Euros. He just wanted to buy some wine. There was some problem with the language, so I offered to help. The man was German and told me the wine was excellent. So, back to dinner. The daughter asked me if I wanted water or wine for dinner. Wine, of course. And the man was not wrong. The red wine, which has no label and is probably home-made, is amazing. Some of the smoothest, tastiest red grape juice with a punch I’ve ever had.  I don’t know what they call it, but I may have to make room in my pack for a bottle.

Well, the sun has set, and I think I’ll go take a shower and hit the sack early. It’s funny – I hear about 3 or 4 church bells and a cuckoo clock going off (except it’s a bird, not a clock.)  Another good day put to rest.

Genova 'n all that

5-31-10
Spent 260Euros on 2 new Metzeler Tourance tires. That's not much more than I spend at home. It only took an hour to get them changed. Then took a much needed siesta, did laundry, worked on the blog, and had dinner. My first real off day all trip, I think. I rode less than 10 miles around town, I think. Far enough to get a parking ticket, though. It should cost 38E, but my landlady at the hotel says don't pay it. I don't know how it could catch up with me. The ticket has no mention of what jurisdiction the license plate is. It's about time, though. I've broken just about every driving law there is, with total impunity. ummm, maybe the less said about that, the better.

I did go to CinqueTerre. (Well, at least one of them.) AAAARGH! Tourist trap!!! Yeah, OK, they're quaint little villages perched on steep hillsides by the sea, but I've just spent a week among dozens of villages just as quaint, without the thousands of tourists per square meter. I couldn't take it and got out of there ASAP.

These are som pix of the southern town:

 

  

See this line of people walking along the cliff? That's a non-stop line of tourists going from town to town.

 

More pix of Corsica...

Luci:

 My first view of Sardinia (on the horizon to the right:)

 

 

 

 

 

The Ferry

5-29-10                            

 Last night I spent in the Camping Les Orangers outside Bastia, thinking I should be close to the ferry terminal.  Oh well. I forgot the departure was 1:15 instead of noon. I could have been anywhere, almost. There was a free concert in the plaza at Bastia, but I couldn’t go because they lock the gates early at the campground.  So, this morning, when I realized I had several hours to play, I headed for the Cap Corse. I did a couple of bits I hadn’t ridden before, and then beat it back to the ferry. There, I met one of the German guys I partied with in Porto. His Harley had broken down and he was putting around on one cylinder. Poor guy.  I hope I don’t get in the same boat. I need 2 new tires, bad. I’ll probably spend an extra day somewhere soon, getting them replaced.

The ferry trip was nothing special, except it’s amazing how many vehicles they can carry. Besides what seemed like a couple of hundred cars, there were also at least a hundred motorcycles. And every ferry to Corsica (several/day) carries that many bikes.  When I rolled off, I didn’t bother stopping in Livorno, but headed straight for the highway north. To avoid central Pisa, I got on the autostrada. That’s a bit different from the twisties of Corsica. Zipping along…mountains so high (~2000m), next to the sea. Cararra, of marble fame - that mountain has a _big_ bite out of it. A bunch of big stone-cutting factories.

I get to La Spezia and check into the Hotel Albergo Birrilo, as recommended by Lonely Planet. The clerk shows me his bike, “the mother of your bike.” It’s a 1981 R80GS, in excellent condition. Cool. Dinner at Die Pescatori (recommended by the hotel clerk.) It’s a takeout fish place by the docks. 50 people (well-dressed Italians) standing in line, it took ½ hour to get in the door. Excellent gnocchi w/crab & a shrimp salad that was delish. Walking back to the hotel, I heard live music. Tracking it down in a tiny piazetta(really just a wide spot in an alley,) I found a jazz quintet playing cool jazz. Good stuff. Looking up, I saw the usual balconies, with laundry hanging out to dry, including a bunch of nice lingerie. When the band stopped playing, I wandered off, only to find another stage with live music, this time with young musicians playing contemporary pop.  I don’t know if La Spezia is special, or big cities all are so hip in Italy. The people sure look stylish, and the walking streets were crowded with people, young and old.  I saw at least 20 or more places I’d like to dine at. I’d have spent more time cruising, but the hotel closes at midnight. That's 2 nights in a row that a curfew has curtailed my social life. Bummer.

Random notes

The port at Bonifacio:

5-28-10
Oh well, just another fabulous one lane twisty bit of road in a ridiculously beautiful landscape. I can’t be getting jaded, now, can I?

Lots of critters in the road today – cows, cats, dogs, pigs, goats, crows, mockingbirds(?), oh, and the massive cowpies in the road

The half dozen pig carcasses hung on the fence by the road like some bizarre ritual warning.

 The cascades yesterday and today – yesterday was inviting, a bit cold but worth a skinny dip. Today was radical, too scary to get close to because of my slippery boots.

The group of 8 or 9 kids at the bar, one with a guitar, singing Corsican songs. A great sound. Folkish, patriotic, possibly traditional. The kids were totally into the music and couldn’t care less about anyone around them. They belted out some a capella tunes that seemed just melodies, but LOUD.

It hailed yesterday. I thought about curtailing the ride, but it looked clearer up in the mountains, so up I went. Sure enough, it was much nicer up there. Riding these roads in good weather is scary enough. The roads are OK in the rain, but I can’t imagine riding them in the winter or in the dark when the weather is really bad.

Last night in the Las Vegas Hotel – 1 star means a real dump, but the ladies who run it (2 old women and probably the daughter) are really nice. The lobby(?) has a painting of Napoleon, a pinball machine, a fussball table, a trophy for some card game tournament, a bunch of children’s toys, and a bouquet of beautiful big roses. And it’s full of the crap that families acquire and seem to stash everywhere.

I thought European riders were supposed to be fast. Or, at least faster than Americans.  I’ve seen very few who were much faster than I. I know I’m not that fast, but I sure feel comfortable on those roads.