Thursday, June 10, 2010

And yet more food...


About European restaurant service… Americans sometimes trash European restaurant service. I’ve had pretty good service here. You have to understand, it’s different. Many Europeans think the American way of, “Are ya all right? Can I get you anything?” constant doting on the customer is intrusive and rude. They prefer a waiter who knows that food should be savored, and that dining takes time to enjoy without interruption. A European waiter will almost never ask if the food is OK, or if you need anything else. And if you want to sit for half an hour after your meal is over, letting it digest, he won’t come to your table and ask if you are ready to pay. Don’t think of it as slow service, rather considerate and unobtrusive.  Of course, I’ve had 2 or 3 who were rude, even by European standards, or were just trying to rip me off, but those incidents were glaringly exceptional.
About bread. For a while, I thought things had really gone downhill. In Italy, whenever bread was put on the table at dinner, it seemed always to be stale and day old. Then I crossed the border into France. Immediately, the bread put on the table was fresh and delicious. Dunno why. Also, in Italy, often a waiter would put bottles of oil & vinegar on the table with a basket of bread, but nothing else. I could not figure out how to use the o&v. Pour it on the bread or what? There was no plate or bowl. Beats me.
More good meals…
In Vallon, I found a great little place called Le Point D’Interrogation. An interesting name. The ambience was also interesting – a mix of subterranean vault and a collection of all kinds of bric-brac, from old radios to dolls to tools, you name it. The food – A very nice green salad with tomatoes and other veggies. The entrée was a delicious 4 cheese pizza, accompanied by a half liter of good rose’.

 
In  Carcassonne, I went to Robert Rodriguez’ restaurant, but it was closed for the night. Across the street, though, was his little café with the same menu. A sweet lady was my host, who I found out later is Mrs Rodriguez. The appetizer was a plate of 3 hard boiled eggs, halved, topped with a spicy white sauce(mayo?) and sprigs of bean sprouts. Yum. The entrée was a salmon steak, covered with a wide variety of sautéed vegetables. Just a little of each veggie, but very fresh and tasty. Beans, peas, asparagus, tomato, potato, etc. The chocolate mousse for desert was perfect – rich, but not overpowering.


Madam Rodriguez:
Last night I went to the Café de la Paix here in Prades. First course was a plate of 10 small mussels with dabs of both a red pate (tomatoes & ?) and a white cream sauce, broiled. The entrée was whole trout accompanied by sautéed veggies with a cube of spicy herbal mashed potatoes and a small salad. Desert was an incredible Napoleon-like dish with an amazingly intense fresh strawberry flavor. And another half liter of fine white wine.
Yes, the quality of food on this trip is finally living up to expectations. Heh heh heh.

The Way It Works


OK, when I had only a bunch of ADAC maps, I’d pretty much just try to do all the roads they recommended on my way through an area. Since Corsica, I’ve been following the Michelin maps. I get a fairly detailed map of a region (say, 1:200,000,) which shows all the minor roads, and highlights nice roads with a green line. I’m not sure what their criteria are, but they’re good at it. The maps I have show just about everything down to a logging road. I look for the real squiggly green lines and try to put a few together on my way to a general destination – say, Barcelona. Since I have no real timeline, and no hotel reservations, I make spur of the moment decisions about which turn to take. If the friggin’ low fuel light goes on, I’ll make new decisions based on where Michelin says the nearest gas station is.  If the weather is good & I feel like it, when it gets late in the afternoon, I’ll start looking for a campsite. Otherwise, I start looking for a hotel.  After a while, you get a feel for where you’ll end up and where there might be a nice place to stay. Lonely Planet comes in handy. I’ve usually been pretty lucky in finding good places to stay. (Not like some other trips. In Morocco, I once slept in a dumpster.)

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

More Genova

I think I'll try to film a walk around the old city today. It reminds me of Middle Eastern cities, the way the streets turn into alleys and tiny paths. They call it Porto Antico, as in ancient. Cobblestone walkways under 5 and 6 story buildings with wooden-shuttered windows. Tiny balconies with iron railings where laundry hangs to dry. It's a tourist area, but it's still a working port with lots of immigrants. You hear Arabic, some African languages, and Eastern European languages. There are groups of men who obviously aren't tourists just hanging around, perhaps waiting for their ship to sail. At night, there are times it seems like a scene from The Third Man, just the place for a Graham Greene adventure.

The 2 guys in orange work at a fruit and veggie shop in the old city.
This is at the entrance to the old city. These swat team guys did NOT want their picture taken. Beats me why not. There are surveillance cameras everywhere in Genova. I was being filmed by 3 that I saw when I took this pic. See the post above the van.
When I left Genova, I went up into the hills above the city. I met this older cyclist. (There are TONS of cyclists EVERYWHERE.) He pointed out that the point below us is the northernmost point of the Mediterranean Sea.

Random stuff again...

Lessee...
The ticket - came within a half hour of entering France. I was getting ready to pass a slow driver and saw three cops by the side of the road, one signaling me. They were nice 'n all, explaining that you don't cross a solid white line in France. Ahhh. In Italy, bikers don't pay much attention to laws at all, certainly not white lines on the road. OK. The first thing the guy said was, in good English, "You must pay 90 Euros, right now. If you don't have 90 Euros, in cash, we will take your motorcycle." Then he hands me printout that explains the government policy of extracting a deposit from foreigners with no French address to cover the fine. OK, so I paid. Then got a couple of photos of them, and one of me with the cop's Yamaha FJR. Before I left, one of them warned me about other cops up the road. Heh. That's the road to the Col de Tende. A busy road. I counted at least 5 cop patrols in the next 20 miles, and a couple of hundred bikes along the route. That's more cops in one area than I've seen on the whole trip.

That same day, I rode off and forgot one of my good padlocks. Pisser, but I do have a spare. The worst thing that day was when I reached the campsite that night and opened my big bag. A bottle of laundry soap had cracked and spilled, getting a lot of stuff all gooey, including my collection of local maps. Now THAT pissed me off more than anything. AAARGH! Senility is a real bitch. I knew the cap was broken, but I thought the plastic bag would hold the soap, or didn't bother thinking about the possibility, or whatever. So far, I've left the camera lens sitting on the back of the bike, forgot the padlock, lost a good ADAC map, the soap, and a couple of other things I've forgotten. I can see Alzheimers creeping in, but there ain't much I can do about it. Every time I get on the bike, I think, "Have I forgotten anything? Did I take care of everything?" But when something happens, it seems there was just a vacant hole in my consciousness at the time.

Oh, and the knife. I bought this nice knife in Italy. It's a sandwich knife, serrated with a round end, so you can cut tomatoes and spread mayo. It's really sharp, but it didn't come with a sheath. I keep putting it in my tank bag and trying to wrap it, but for some reason, every time I reach for it, I get cut. I mean it's silly, a slapstick comedy bit. Every time. I have a dozen cuts from the knife. It really is sharp. I finally went to the pharmacy yesterday and bought a roll of bandages to cover the cuts, and a roll of tape to make a sheath for the knife.

So, the good stuff...
more good food. More good wine. More good pastries. And more good roads.
I found a tiny little road that Michelin said was "difficult and dangerous," but it turned out just to be narrow and steep, a fun bit down a pretty mountain. At the bottom, the road ended at Le Pompidou, a little village. A few meters away, I saw a group of bikers sitting outside a bar. I pulled over and ordered a cafe au lait. They asked me about the helmet camera, and then told me I was lucky. The local Prefect was coming soon to declare this bar, a "Biker's Bar." Motorcyclists in France are activating, trying to wield more political power. One way is to get local businesses friendly to bikers to declare themselves. Soon, the Prefect showed up on a GoldWing, and a few local Gendarmes arrived, and a few other bureaucrats, and they all went inside. The prefect made a speech, some others talked, and then they all signed a document. Interesting. I was a definite outsider, but welcome. I shook the Prefect's hand, and the cops', and the officers' of the local bike club chapter. Then I rode off down the road. Well, that's when I found out what those guys deal with. What a road. Wow. D9, The Corniche des Cervennes. What a fabulous road. About 30 clicks of wide open sweepers - fast, clean, smooth, through beautiful countryside, but who's looking at the view when the ride is so fun? One great road. You just put it in 3rd gear and go, rarely using the brakes, just flick it and ride. And at the end is a little river with rocks and pools to swim in.

Why the heck am I smiling?
Up on the Col de Tende. THE tightest, steepest, twistiest road I've ever ridden.
The biker bar meeting:
The Prefect:


Yeah, they go the same place, and they're the same distance, but D21 on the left goes over the Col di Turini, which is one heck of a ride.

This is a little piazza in Sospel. Some of these little places look like stage sets out of Shakespeare.
More mountains:
So, I was riding on this deserted road for a while, and decided to take a break for a snack and a drink:
It was out in the middle of nowhere, and I hadn't seen another vehicle in ages. I mean, an hour or so. I started thinking about the cyclists and all the names I'd seen painted on the mountain roads, and I figured I could write my name on the road, too. You know, like writing your name in the snow kinda thing. So, I whip it out and started writing, and got the "T" done, when a car comes by! What the hell? Hey, lady, can't you see I'm busy here? I just started on the "K" when _another_ car came by. Then a cop car. Geez, people. Can't a guy do his business in peace?

Monday, June 7, 2010

The Route so far (since MapMyRoute)-

I don't expect anyone else to care about this, except for real map freaks. It's more for my own archival use. The letters and numbers (D198) refer to route numbers on my Michelin maps. (FWIW, Michelin says France is changing the numbers.)

5-23 sun
Bastia - Brando - Macinaggio - Ersa - Barcaggio - Tollare - Macinaggio
5-24 mon
Macinaggio(glove) - Marine de Luri - Macinaggio(gloves) - Marine de Porticciolo - Cagnano - Castiglione - Pino - Marine de Canelle beach - Nonza - Marine de Canelle(lens) - St Florent - L'lle Rousse - Calvi - Pte de la Revellata(swim) - Galeria - Porto
5-25 tue
Porto - les Calanche - Cargese - Sagone - D25 - Ambiegna - Arbori - Vico - Col de Sevi - Col de Vergio - Castirla - Corte - La Restonica - Col de Bellagranajo - Ajaccio - Porticcio - Camping, D255a(Pietrosella)
5-26 wed
Camping D255a - Pnta La Castagna(french family of guys on BMWs) - Serra di Ferro - Taravo River flowers - Propriano - Sartene - Plage de Tonnara - Bonifacio - Plage de Piantarella - D859 Figari - D59 Col de Bacinu - Levie – Zonz
5-27 thu
Zonza - Col de Bavella - Col de Larone +2miles - Zonza - Levie - Ste Lucie D268 - D69 - Aullene - Zicavo (Cascade) - Col de Verde - Ghisoni(cafe, Belgian couple) - col de Sorba - Vivario - N193 - Corte(gas) - Vivario - Col de Morello - Vezzani - D243 - D43 - Rospigliani - D143 - N200 - D314 - Altiani - D14 - Erbajolo - D39 - Feo - D41 - Sermano - D41 - Sta Lucia - Tralonca - N193 - Corte(Hotel du Pais) - N193 - Ponte Leccia
5-28 fri
P.Leccia - D71 - Morosaglia - Piedicroce - Cervione - Corniche de la Castagniccia(cascade) - Sta Lucia di Moriani - D330 - Talasani - Isolaccio - D230 - N198 - D506a - San Pellegrino - N198 - San Pan Crazio - D106 - D6 - D206 - D237 - Silvareccio - D237 - Octiporio - D515 - Barchetta - N193 - Ponte Nuovo - D5 - Lento - Bigorno - Murata - D5 - Col de S.Stefano - Oletta - D38 - Col de Teghime - D81 - D64 - Cardo - D81 - Bastia - Miomo - Erbalunga - Miomo
5-29 sat
Miomo - Marine de Luri - Castiglione - Col de Ste Lucie - Tour de Seneque - Pino - Morsiglia - Pastina - Marine de Meria - Bastia - FERRY - Livorno - S1 to Pisa - N12 around Pisa to Sarzana - S1 to La Spezia
5-30 sun
La Spezia - Riomaggiore(CinqueTerre) - Levanto - Pso d Bracco - SS1 – Genova
5-31 Mon
Genova
6-1 tue
Genova - Pso d Turchino - P del Faiallo - Olba san Pietro - Palo - Sassello - 334 - Col d Giovo - Giusvalla - Dego - Carcare - Bormida - Col di Melogno - Calizzano - Bardineto - Castelvecchio - Col San Bernardo - Garessio - Ormea - ponte di Nava - Col di Nava - Pieve di Teco - Col San Bartolomeo
6-2 wed
Col S.B. - San Bernardo di Conio - Colle d'Oggia(+2.5 miles) - S.B.d.C. - Passo Teglia - Andagna - Molini di Triora - Colle Langan - Castelvittorio - Bajardo - S.Romolo - Borello - (near San Remo, past autostrada) - Perinaldo - Dolceaqua - Roccheta Nervina - Verrandi - Trucco -Airole - Breil sur Roya - Tende - col de Tende - Sospel
6-3 thu
Sospel - D2566 - Menton - Monaco - Grand Corniche - Nice - Bd Maurice Slama - A8 - Nice Nord - Gairaut - A8 - Nice Est- Nice Nord - D14 - Falicon - D19 - Tourette Levins - D815 - contes - D615(Berre les Alpes) - L'Escarene - D2566 - Luceram - D21 - La Cabanette - D21 - Col d'Orme - D54 - D2204 - Col de Braus - Sospel
6-4 fri
Sospel - Col de Turini - La Bollene Vesubie - St Martin Vesubie - St Saveur - D30(2mile past Roure) - St Saveur - D2205 - D6202 - Le Chandan - D901 - Carros - St Jeannett - Vence - St Paul - Maeght Found. - D7 - D6 - D7 - D2085 - Grasse - Le Cannett - La Bocca - Theoule sur Mer - Antheor - Agay - Antheor
6-5 sat
Antheor - St Raphael - D559 - Port Grimaud - D98 - D558 - Cogolin - Grimaud - La Garde Freinet - D48 - Vidauban - N7 - La Muy - D25 - Gorges de Pennafort - Callas - Col du Bel Homme - D25 - D21 - comps - D71 - Grand Canyon du Verdun - Corniche Sublime - Aiguines - D19 - D957 - D952 - Moustiers - Riez - d953 - Mezel - N85 - Chaudon Norante - D20 - Col de Corobin - Eaux Chaudes - Digne les Bains - D12 - Le Chaffaut - D8 - D4 - Le Mees - St Donat - D101 - D951 - St Etienne - D950 - Banon - Sault - Montbrun
6-6 sun
Montbrun - D189 - Ferrassieres - D63 - Col de L'Homme Mort - D542 - Sederon -
D170 - Eygaleyes - Col St Jean - Laborel - D65 - Col de Perty - St Auban - La
Rochette - Buis Les Baronnies - Mollans - Entrechaux - D13 - D938 - Malaucene - D13 - Caromb - D13 - Carpentras - D13 - Caromb _ D13 - D938 - D19 - Beduin - D974 - Le Chalet Reynard - Mont Ventoux - Malaucene - D90 - Suzette - Beaumes - D81 - D8 - Bollene - Pont St Esprit - D6086 - D290 - Gorges De L'Ardeche - Vallon Pont d'Arc
6-7 mon
Vallon - D579 - Vagnes - D255 - Bessas - Berias et Casteljau - Les Borels - D252 - D901 - Les Vans - D901 - D906 - Ales - Cendras - Le Baume - D32 - Col de la Baraque - D54 - Col de Pendedis - D54 - St Andre de Lancize - D984 - St Germain - Masel - Nogaret - D13 - D62 - Masbonnet - Le Pompidou - D9(Corniche des Cevennes) - St Jean du Gard - D153 - LaSalle - Sumene - D20 - St Martial - Col de Triballe - D420 - Peyregrosse - D986 - D999 - Le Vigan

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Catching up

It'll take a while to catch up. I can't believe I haven't found Inet access in a week. I'm in southern France right now - some dinky little town in the hills. I went to the top of Mt Vendoux today. Pretty incredible. I should be in Spain in a few days. I've been twisting around the Maritime Alps, in between stints on the Riviera. The Riv is like Laguna Beach, only richer and more crowded. I found a nice stretch, though, with a pretty nice campsite. I also went to the Temple of Money. No, not Wall Street - the Casino at Monte Carlo. It's amazing. Well, I didn't actually go in, but the aura of people with so much money they have fun throwing it away is pretty decadent.

I've finally had a couple of bad days. Why does it always have to come in threes? When I have time and energy I'll tell more of the story. Suffice it to say I now have a certificate that I've contributed 90 Euros to the French government. And more evidence that getting old really sucks. But overall, it's still a great trip. For evey hour of tribulation, there are 20 of joy. There is some danger of me becoming an alcoholic, though. That half carafe of wine with dinner is real enticing.
OK, I gotta go. The barman wants to close up and I'm using his WiFi. some time I'll find a real Inet connection.

 Everywhere seems very clean, with very little litter on the streets. One reason is this guy goes around picking up what he can. Another reason is people burn their trash every morning. I guess you get used to the smell, but there should be a better way.


This is Mont Ventoux. Can you imagine riding a bicycle up that?
The view from the top. That's bare rock, not snow.
The Riviera from the Grand Corniche. I first read about the GC in an early James Bond book. I always wanted to ride it.
Lifeguard tower at Nice. Yes, there are topless women in the pic. The beach is cobblestone. Not very comfy to walk on, so very few people in the water.
The Casino at Monte Carlo.
I found a little secluded beach here for a swim. Not much of this isoation on the Riviera, but it exists.
Up in the hills:
That's a cherry tree in the foreground, with olives beyond, and a bunch of different crops on the hillside.

Last day in Italy


6-1-10
I am sitting here on the balcony of my hotel room at the Albergo Belvedere on the Col de Bartolomeo. As I type, I am munching on an assortment of delicious cookies I bought at the Agaccio shop in Ponte de Nava (a gourmet specialty shop I chanced into.) There is hardly any breeze and even the birds are quiet at 8:20 in the evening. The sun is still up, but low in the sky. Col means pass, so I am at the top of the mountain and looking down a long valley to the Mediterranean miles below. I can see at least 7 church steeples in little villages dotted across the green landscape, (even one all by itself on the mountain side.)
The cookies are just a greedy  bit of decadence, because I just finished a delicious dinner. The hotel is an old place, run by an elderly couple and their middle-aged daughter. It seems more like a B&B, because the family sat down to eat in the dining room after I was served. The Italian version of “Who Wants to be a Millionaire” was on the tube. I think I’m the only guest, because the daughter told me I had 7 minutes before dinner would be ready. It was spaghetti marinara, about the best ever. Very simple, but perfectly done, accompanied by some steamed green beans, I think from their garden. (The pasta is home-made, I found out.) There was a plate of 3 cheeses on the side. And the red wine? Let me back up.
I left Genova late this morning. I posted some stuff, took a few videos in the hotel and town, then headed up the coast. Traffic wasn’t horrendous, but bad enough to cause stress. I’d looked at the map and there seemed to be a twisty road not too far from town. I jumped at the chance and it was as expected, an adrenalin rush of me vs the road, as opposed to me vs a horde of other people on the road. Much nicer, and much calmer. I navigated my way closer to France, but the heat of the day and the stress of traffic zapped my energy. I had a hard time staying awake, even though the countryside was new and beautiful. I tried a couple of cafes, and finally stopped by a small stream to rest. I decided to find a hotel and call it a day. The decision was made easier thinking that the closer I get to the Med and France, the closer I get to Riviera type prices. I figured if there wasn’t a hotel at the Col, I’d backtrack to the last town. 
Luckily, the Albergo Belvedere is here. As I pulled up, a car pulled up right behind me. The driver got out, and we both entered together.  I asked for a single room, and a woman asked “single?” and pointed to the other man. He explained that he’d been there a while ago and they said he could have a bottle of red wine for 5 Euros. He just wanted to buy some wine. There was some problem with the language, so I offered to help. The man was German and told me the wine was excellent. So, back to dinner. The daughter asked me if I wanted water or wine for dinner. Wine, of course. And the man was not wrong. The red wine, which has no label and is probably home-made, is amazing. Some of the smoothest, tastiest red grape juice with a punch I’ve ever had.  I don’t know what they call it, but I may have to make room in my pack for a bottle.
Well, the sun has set, and I think I’ll go take a shower and hit the sack early. It’s funny – I hear about 3 or 4 church bells and a cuckoo clock going off (except it’s a bird, not a clock.)  Another good day put to rest.